A popular saying goes, “If you wish to eat banh it la gai, get married to a Binh Dinh man to increase your life experience.”
It shows how essential “banh it la gai” (sticky rice cake) is to the people in the central region. Originating in
“banh it la gai” is made from five ingredients – sticky rice, “la gai“ (a type of thorn leaf popular in the central region), sugar, green beans (or black beans) and a banana leaf.
The “la gai” is boiled and then ground in a stone mortar until its green colour turns black. The sticky rice is ground into flour. The sugar is dissolved in water and then boiled down to make syrup. Then the three ingredients are mixed together to make the dough. Meanwhile, the green beans are soaked in water for hours and then whipped before steaming. After that the well-done beans are ground and rolled into balls used as fillings for the dough.
The dumpling can also be made with sweetened ground coconut instead of beans. Either way the banana leaves are usually put quickly on the fire or dipped in hot water to make them soft so that it is easier to wrap the cake with them. The little packages usually are shaped like pyramids with square bottoms. Then people arrange the packets into a pot for steaming.
Visiting Binh Dinh, tourists can discover how “banh it” often stands right in the centre of locals’ lives.
In death anniversaries, it is acceptable for there to be no fish or meat, but there must be “banh it la gai”. In marriage rituals, a tray of “banh it la gai” is the gift of the bride’s family to that of the groom to show the skilfulness of the bride who has made the “banh it” together with other villagers.
In the former imperial capital of
”Banh it ram” is a little ball of sticky rice flour stuffed with shrimp and pork so that the dumpling is also called “banh it nhan tom thit” . The tasty morsel is served plain or wrapped in banana leaves and is one of the indispensable dishes in the death anniversaries of a
Banh it is also popular in the historic town of Hoi An in
Hoi An has two types of “banh it”: one with green bean filling and wrapped in banana leaves called “banh it la gai nhan dau xanh” and the other also filled with green beans but served plain called “banh it la gai tran”. Unlike common “banh it la gai”, “banh it tran” usually is pink and smells like “la dua” (a type of leaf that smells when it is steamed).
A famous “banh it la gai”-making family lives on Nhi Trung Street in Hoi An. Stopping by their ancient house, tourists can learn all the stages of making “banh it”. They can see how people prepare la gai, whip beans, grind sticky rice and form the dumplings. Above all, they can enjoy “banh it” right after it is steamed.