Man rethinks folk opera costumes

Remembering heritage of his forefathers and frustrated with boring and unexpressive costumes,, Honoured Artist Hoang Viet began to rebuild the garb of tuong (classical drama of Vietnam) in 2004.

Viet and the costume for a civil mandarin in Tuong

Costume is the primary expressive language of ancient Tuong, alongside make-up and instruments used by artists such as paper fans, swords or flags. For each character (the hero, the villain, the flatterer, etc.), there is a costume that represents their role.

Today, Tuong artists seem to ignore the expression aspect of costumes, leading to the impending death of this stage language and Directors, with their poor knowledge of history, often make costume mistakes. For example, a Tuong play about the Tran Dynasty had artists wearing costumes of the Le Dynasty.

Recently, Tuong costumes have fallen under the influence of the Chinese stage where all characters, from Kings and Queens to mandarins and even farmers wear glittering costumes laced with gold thread. Incorrect costumes have a negative impact on the performance of artists and younger audiences being introduced to the traditional Tuong art.

Honoured Artist Hoang Viet was born in a family of Tuong (his grandfather and parents are famous Tuong artists) and his upbringing in the Tuong atmosphere has provided him with a deep knowledge of the art. Though Viet is now a choreographer, his passion for this traditional art still burns.

After realizing the problems and loss of culture of Tuong costumes, Viet decided to rebuild ancient costumes like what his grandfather and parents wore in the past. He sought an 80-year-old man, who prepared costumes for the Tuong troupe of his father, to sketch traditional costumes, masks, etc. of each type of Tuong character.

All were rebuilt based only on the old man’s memory and hands.

The job began in 2004 and it took them until 2006 to finish the first costume in the traditional way.

Tuong costumes have many details and feature intricate props like hats, shoes, and masks. In the three years of work, they have only produced seven sets.

Viet said that his ancient Tuong costumes will be completed by 2010 and he plans to display the collection at his house.